Day Eight Shannonbridge to Portumna Bridge

Geography and the scarcity of bridging points in the Shannon dictated this was going to be the longest section of our journey- some 35 km down the Shannon. Even given the flow of the River this was going to be a long section and need a bit of willpower.

The first test was getting up at 7.30 at a weekend to try and get in the water by 9. We nearly made it but the lovely breakfast at the Sheraton held us up a bit. We set off at a fast pace and made about 7-8 Km in the first hour, although as sections of the river were wide and slow flowing and with some cross wind to hinder us this wasnt going to be a pace we could maintain.

Cruisers obviously don't set out till after 10 and we had the river to ourselves in the morning- apart from the numerous herons, ducks and swans and one kingfisher.

By about lunchtime we canoed off the only map I had of the area and onto a poor scale google print out. We could see there was a split in the river and took a left hand branch that soon picked up speed and was taking us a long quite fast. I thought this was great until I saw the bridge with the sign ' beware of sluices'. Meara asked the question 'whats a sluice?' and i couldn't really remember so i replied ' its the opposite of s'tight' (i have an unusual sense of humour ) and we paddled on. Soon we came to a bridge with gates closed and only one fully open, through which the water poured through in a torrent and dropped down a few feet. By the time we could see what it was it was too late to backpaddle so we went through at full speed to the by now common cry of 'paddle hard!' from me. The gate wasnt very wide but we managed a good line and shot through with only my right leg getting a soaking. The river continued to flow fast for another 2-3 KM, coming out near Victoria dock. All great fun and saving us at least half an hour of paddling.

On the next section there was a childs camp and lots of speedboats with people learning to wakeboard. It looked like fun but after the lovely quiet sections of river we had just passed the noise of the powerboats was intrusive.

Apart from passing through Banagher there was not a lot of civilisation until we arrived in Portumna. We arrived there at about 3.30. Very tired but with a great sense of acheivement that 35 km was an acheivable distance. Just south of Portumna bridge is Loch Derg, and there is now only this long thin lake and a short section of the Shannon between us and Limerick- the end is in sight.

Unfortunately on Monday i had a small operation and Mear went off to England for a week so the last leg would have to wait another week or two..

Day Seven Athlone to ShannonBridge

The bad news is that the camera is still missing, so the only photos I have are taken by mobile phone. I was working friday morning and Meara had his French class so it was nearly two pm when we headed from Athboy. We were in the water below the weir at Athlone by 3.30 and were aiming to cover the 22 KM to Shannnonbridge which would allow us to complete the section to Portumna on the next day.

The River here is flowing slowly, but enough to help you along without the effort needed in the still waters of lake or canal. We even met a Kayaker- a man taking his old Kayak out for the first time in 20 years. There are plenty of cruisers on this section, some going far too fast and we needed to turn into bow waves a number of times to avoid shipping water. In general it those renting boats who dont slow down- and those with there own boats who were more considerate and waved greetings. If any cruise companies are listening then please include this in the briefing for holiday makers.


The nicest section here is the loop of the river past Clonmacnoise, and as we passed at about 6pm it was quiet and a fantastic setting in the bend of the river. The banks are mainly reeds or fields with cows that make the bank muddy, and it is quite hard to find a decent place to stop. More often than not it was the islands where the lake split that were the best option.

Where possible we tried to take the smaller river sections where the river split; for variety but also to avoid the passing cruisers. Unfortunately one bridge marked on the map was a stone path that cut across the river and we had to portage over.

We were pleased with how fast we were going and managed it to Shannonbridge at about 7.30 pm. The landmark of the large ESB powerstation is a shame as the bridge is lovely. We left the boat in a small harbour here and rang for a taxi to take us back to Athlone where we were staying. There was a youth festival on at Clonmacnoise and all the bed and breakfasts in the area were booked up.

Apparently all the bridges along this section have bridges and forts (the one in Shannonbridge is now converted to a restaurant) set up in napoleonic times by the British...

Day Six- Ballymahon to Athlone.

Today was to be a mix of River and Lake; we covered the last 5-6 Km of the River Inny to enter Loch Ree and then having covered some 17-18 Km of Loch we entered The River Shannon for a couple of Km before arriving at Athlone.

Tracy, Meara, Elliott and Ethan were to meet us there, and Mick and myself drove ourselves to Ballymahon, arriving at about 10. It was strange having someone else in teh canoe- I had got used to Meara and his paddling technique. The first section was fast moving, with a few white water sections but not quite as hairy as the day before. After a few Km the nature of the river changed and slowed, until soon we paddling against wind and small waves. We took a short break just before entering the lake properly.

Entering the lake was breathtaking- the expanse of water ahead of you is like entering a small sea. The wind is also strong and we were immediately heading in choppy water against the wind and finding it hard work. Choppy water soon became waves and we were forced to zig zag against and with the waves to avoid taking water on board. Mick certainly could paddle stronger than Meara but both of us were soon tiring. I was a little nervous 500m out in the middle of the lake with waves getting larger and not a soul in sight. We were glad of the first rest which we took in the lea of a small island ( soon to christened Bird Poo Island- I have no idea of its real name as I only had a poor Google maps print out for this section).

After the rest we rounded a headland and the wind was now from behind us and to our right for a way. Even so we had to constantly adjust and try and take shelter behind any islands- which meant our route was far from direct and added Kms to the 26 or so we had planned for the day.

As we headed further south we began to see more boats- the odd speed boat and troutfisherman but mainly rented cruisers. The last section before entering the mouth of the Shannon was the worst as the winds had travelled the length of the lake and was now from our right. The waves were breaking and were in sections over three feet. To avoid capsizing we had to paddle directly into the waves and a number of times waves crashed over the side and I had to try and combine paddling hard to stay on track with frantic scooping of water out the boat with a small plastic scoop. All this was very tiring and once we took the corner and had Athlone in sight we coasted for a while.

The last two Km into Athlone we took slowly, waving at passing cruisers and tour boats. As we arrived under the bridge the sun shone and we forgot the wind and the waves. We left the boat and carried bags and paddles into town to try and find Tracy. Walking down the high street and into the main shopping centre we wondered why everyone was staring at us!Tracy had made us some T shirts which we wore with pride the next day;

Day five-Ballinacarrigy to Ballymahon

The last section of canal for us crosses the peat bogs and moor lands between Ballinacarrig and Ballymahon. The area is wild and remote from civilisation, at points you can hear no cars or motors and see only the odd farmhouse on the horizon.


We knew we had plenty of time today so set off at a relatively slow pace. As I had left the camera memory card in the computer the camera didnt work so we got no photographs of the departure or arrival. I have also managed to loose the small camera i took with me so at the moment no photographs for this blog.


There was hardly anyone on this stretch. Someone from waterways ireland helped us past on the five locks on the stretch and we saw one canal boat being painted. Given the level of use and the number of boats we saw it is amazing that the canal is so well cared for- the grass is cut at locks and bridges, the path is kept clear, the water dredged and weeds cut, and trees cut on the bank to keep it relatively clear. In fact we probably saw more waterways ireland staff than we did people using the canal.


At about 1pm we arrived at the aquaduct over the River Inny, which was where we were leaving the canal. The switch was a little difficult as we had to carry the boat down a steep embankment and the water was fairly fast flowing. This felt like a real turning point- we were leaving the canal, which felt like an uphill struggle, and heading downhill. It was also a little sad to see the Royal Canal behind us.

We had got soaked in heavy downpours in the morning and we were cold and tired so a stop off at a pub in Abbeyshrule was very welcome. The barmaid didn't bat an eyelid at two people wearing lifejackets and carrying paddles, dripping on the carpet and asking for soup and tea. There is an airfield at Abbeyshrule which seemed strange- it was a nice place but really near to nowhere.



The River Inny is a grade two white water river. In a canoe with no bouyancy bags and with a thirteen year at the front I was a little nervous. Unlike a Kayak a Canadian canoe can take on water and become unbalanced quite easily and you have to keep the canoe pointed downstream and move as quickly as possible to avoid taking in water. The River picks up speed shortly after Abbeyshrule and we soon hit the first white water. There were some significant drops and a few stoppers. Meara was brilliant here; he wasnt frightened and helped shout out from the front which line to take through each section. At one point the boat got stuck on a rock just above a fall and I thought we were going for a soaking. That apart and a few splashes we managed excellently. The speed of the River meant our constant speed paddling of the canal was repalced by slow paddling to maintain direction and mad paddling to get through the rapids. Tiring but a welcome change.


We arrived at about 4pm in Ballyshannon. A nice riverside town but with a degree of irony the first person we spoke to was from Salford on a fishing holiday.


Friday night Mick the Quilt arrived from England to help out for a days paddling- the length of Loch Ree and the possibility of waves and wind meant that muscle was needed!

Day Four- Mullingar to Ballinacarrigy

The weather forecast for today was poor and we expected a soaking but it was actually the best day of the week. We had planned on covering only 20km as there were 10 locks to pass through, and the locks near Mullingar had taught us a hard lesson.

We were in the water by 10.30 in a built up area, and there was some strong wind to contend with. After leaving Mullingar the wind died down and the sun came out. I thought this section was beautiful; more like a slow flowing river without the uniform banks of the canal earlier. There were some lock keepers cottages expanded into impressive homes and we found a really nice harbour with picnic benches to take our lunch. We met a walker here who was walking the Royal Canal path to raise money for a cancer charity.

The fact that we had only 20 km to do meant we were more relaxed mentally and we developed a steady pace and really enjoyed the scenery. We were a bit slower but it didnt matter and we arrived at the meeting point at about 4pm. Ethan had a go in the canal basin here, even had a go at paddling- maybe a future canoeist! I was really physically and mentally tired Thursday night, starting to feel the cumulative effect of so much exercise.

Tomorrow we will leave the canal after 10 km and enter the River Inny. We have never covered this and are unsure how rapidly it flows. On the 'song of the paddle' canoe forum I heard from Ciaran who had canoed it a few months ago which was reassuring to know that it can be done.

Day Three- Hill of Down to Mullingar

Meara praying for an outboard motor...

The weather forecast for the past three days had been 'cloudy but dry, cloudy with light showers and showers with some sunshine.' In actual fact all three mean the same- clouds and rain with the occasional sunny patch. At least the first days had been still. Today unfortunately it was starting to get windy and inevitably the wind was blowing against us.


We had difficulty getting up this morning. Dead to the world, and so a little late in leaving and setting off. Hazel and family turned up to wave goodbye which was lovely. This stretch from Hill of Down to Killucan had clear water and was full of fish- huge shoals of them. Its also one of the most picturesque parts of the canal. The locks are pretty but with 8 of them in quick succession they became a horrible sight. The canoe is a 158 Discovery by Old Town, a lovely canoe for a family but when you have to keep taking it out the water and dragging it, its a little bit heavy.


We made great time on the first stretch; and covered the 13 km to Killucan very quickly. It was encouraging to be canoeing patches of the canal we were familiar with, having used them for training. Even better because I had left the map and waterproof bag in the car so we were canoeing blind.

At Killucan northwards there are eight locks in short succession. This section was really slow and soon began to take its toll on my legs. In many places you can see the next lock from the top of the last.

After Killucan you also enter peaty soil and the water changes to a reddish brown.


By one o'clock we were very optomistic that we were well ahead of schedule, which wasnt too sensible given that we had no map. 24km also seem a lot longer when you have to keep taking the canoe in and out of the water. The next section the water turned muddy brown and the weeds started to clog up the canal. We met Waterways Ireland staff later with a broken down dredger.

By three o'clock we had left the N4 and thought we were nearly at the pick up point. The wind, weeds and tiring arms meant we still a had a way to go. We did manage to overtake a motor boat on this stretch which was good for the ego. We finally arrived in Mullingar about 4.45. I was so happy to see the finish line, and so happy that having reached Mullingar we could have a rest day on Wednesday and a massage to look forward to tonight!

Day Two- KIlcock to Longwood (monday)

The first five minutes paddling were hard work until aching muscles started working and until Meara woke up. We left Tracy and Ethan feeding the ducks and headed out, racing a six year old boy amused at the rarity of a canoe on the canal. Once we had left Kilcock, this stretch of canal is amazingly featureless until Enfield. Whole open stretches for miles with no locks and no sign of any roads or even houses. When the highlight of the day is splashing a cow and laughing because Meara fell in the canal you realise not alot has happened!

Lots more fish including plenty of pike and perch, but the water much clearer than closer to Dublin.

We were both tired in the afternoon. Meara had a lie down......

We saw our first moving boat today, and went on our first little viaduct as the canal goes over a river. We were going so well we decided to press on an extra 4 km from the planned stop off and finished at the lovely canal side pub at Hill of Down. Google maps had failed Tracy and she had got lost so we went in the pub for a guiness and coke/ bag of crisps. Lovely.

Day One. Sunday 1st of August

Last night I had the canoe on the car and all the gear stacked up ready to go. The main task in the morning was making sandwiches and getting Meara out of bed (the latter the most difficult). We took the new road to Dublin and got there quickly- there is never any traffic on a Sunday morning. We found a good spot for unloading on double yellow lines next to the 'Royal Canal Park' in north Dublin.

We unloaded well and said our good byes. Then we encountered the first problem- having put the boat in the water we found it was clogged with horrible algae. So thick we couldnt pass through it. So the first km we had to drag the canoe along the bank, which was a back breaking start to the day and drew quite a sweat. Fortunately, although we were to come across many weedy sections after this, this was the only section with such disgusting algae.

After leaving the M50 viaduct and passing a couple of locks the canal soon enters lovely countryside. The steep wooded banks of this section mean that you pass through built up areas without seeing any urbanisation apart from some rubbish in the water and the odd bridge.

After the carrying section, the paddling seemed really easy. Meara was a star and did really well on this morning. We had trained alot earlier in the year but with exams and holidays we hadn't done much training recently and I was beginning to worry if the first day target of 29km was a bit optimistic. We amused ourselves here by counting things in the water. Here's a short list



- about 3500 empty cans of cheap lager

- about 30 footballs

-10 shopping trolleys

-5 bikes

- 1 trike

- luckily 0 corpses!



After the first three hours ( probably 10 km) the canal starts to enter more open countryside and the number of cans decreases and the banks flatten allowing more light. The number of fish was phenomenal in this section; shoals of roach and rudd, perch and the odd marauding pike hung in water.

In the afternoon the pace slowed a little but the canal was interesting with spaced locks and lots of bridges. There were walkers and fisherman (all Polish apparently) to say hi to, but not a single moving boat in the whole 29 km stretch.



Arriving into Kilcock to be collected we met a very welcome welcome party. And home for a bath and curry!

Why?

Good question really. To be honest because I dont know of anyone who has done it. Because I could raise money for charity. To spend time with Meara. To see some beautiful parts of ireland. To keep fit. Just because I can. All are valid answers. Why not eh?

We decided to try canoeing across Ireland- and not necessarily using the easiest route. We wanted to go down the Royal Canal as it passes through Co Meath- our county. It also passes very close to Meara's school in Mullingar. From the starting point in Dublin we will pass through County Dublin, County Kildare, County Meath and Westmeath before transferring the canoe to the River Inny, which we haven't done before. I am of the opinion which is not commonly shared by sensible people that descending a river is much more exciting if you dont know what is ahead of you. We then enter into the large Loch Ree and through this to start the descent of the Shannon- at this point there is at least some river flow to help us to our destination of Limerick.